This tramp follows an historic crossing of the Southern Alps at Harper Pass (962m).
Maori used the route to access pounamu (greenstone) on the West Coast and European settlers used it for access and supply purposes during the gold rush of in the 1860s. Harper Pass is named after Leonard Harper who at 20 years of age became the first European to cross the pass and reach the West Coast in 1857.
The route fell into disuse from 1867 following the development of an alternative route through Arthur’s Pass, which provided more direct access to the Coast.
In the 1930s the track was reopened and 4 substantial huts were constructed by the Physical Welfare Division of the Department of Internal Affairs in an attempted to recreate the Milford Track’s model for tourism success. While the Harper Pass Track has never reached the Milford Track’s status it still affords a quality tramping experience of relative ease.
On the West Coast side of Harper Pass the route requires numerous crossings of the Taramakau and Otehake Rivers. Trampers with river-crossings skills and experience will find these rivers passable in normal to low flows but impassable when river levels are high. Locke Stream Hut has a radio link to DOC’s visitor centre in Arthur’s Pass, which can be used to obtain weather information. Extra food should be carried to enable trampers backtrack or to wait until river levels subside.
Note: The traditional Harper Pass Track starts at Windy Point and ends at Aickens but these notes include the Tui Track and Flood Track, which link the Harper Pass Track into Te Araroa from the north and south.
St James Car Park (Boyle Village) to Hope-Kiwi Lodge 6.5 -8 hours
This Te Araroa section starts at the St James car park at Boyle Village. Follow the Tui Track sign and markers to the highway and then on the landward side of the fence on the left to a driveway leading to the old Boyle Base Hut. Cross the road here and follow the markers down to a terrace, and then along to the Boyle River.
If safe to cross, ford the Boyle River where markers indicate and continue down the true right bank on river flats to the confluence with the Doubtful River.
If the river can't be crossed safely then back-track and continue down on the road shoulder for about 2 hours to the sign-post marking the entrance road to the Lake Sumner Forest Park at Windy Point. You will pass the Engineers Camp along the way. There is a car park and shelter at Windy Point, a short distance down the entrance road. This marks the alternative, and traditional, start point to the Harper Pass Track.
After fording the Doubtful River where marked the track continues down the true right of the Boyle River and joins a farm track that leads onwards to a deer fence. Follow this fence around until markers show the track heading up hill through manuka and beech forest towards the main Hope Valley track. Te Araroa joins the Harper Pass Track proper here. Turn right and the track climbs through manuka scrub and farm land to the beech forest’s edge. Once inside the forest the track sidles above the Hope River to Hope Shelter, a basic 6 bunk hut that is old but still in reasonable condition.
Beyond Hope Shelter the track continues through the forest and then breaks out across grassy flats. The track then crosses the Hope River on a swingbridge. Across the bridge there is a junction with the track to St Jacobs Hut. From here Te Araroa heads south on the track to Hope-Kiwi Hut, situated in a large clearing near the forest edge.
Hope-Kiwi Lodge to Hurunui Hut 5 – 6 hours (19 km)
Below Hope-Kiwi Lodge the track crosses open cattle flats then climbs through bush towards Kiwi Saddle (677m). A lookout nearby affords good views of Lake Sumner. Beyond the saddle the track descends towards the lake shore and to a swingbridge over Three Mile Stream. Cross the bridge, continue to the lake head and beyond up the Hurunui River’s true left side. Keep to the marked track until it deviates across the valley to another swingbridge, this time over the Hurunui River. Once on the other side of the river the track climbs and sidles for about 30 minutes to Hurunui Hut, a modern hut with sleeping platforms and elevated views over the valley below.
Hurunui Hut to Hurunui No. 3 Hut 4-5 hours (10 km)
The track descends from the hut through manuka forest to the open flats of the valley floor. After about 1 ½ hours look out for steam rising from a stream that crosses the track. A short distance beyond a sign indicates access to a hot pool. Another sign at the pool warns that “Amoebic meningitis is fatal and caused by water entering nasal passages. Do not immerse head”. This stark warning need not deter trampers from an indulgent soak to neck level, a Te Araroa highlight.
Beyond the hot spring the track continues through flats and forest on the Hurunui’s true right all the way to Hurunui No. 3 Hut. While one of the original 4 huts on the route, the No. 3 Hut remains a comfortable 16 bunk hut. It has that has an unusual looking DOC research building nearby.
Hurunui No.3 Hut to Locke Stream Hut 7 hours (15 km)
Soon after leaving the No. 3 Hut the track crosses Cameron Stream. An emergency 3 wire bridge can be used here to avoid getting wet feet. Continue across the flat towards Cameron Hut (4 bunks). This hut is affords basic emergency accommodation for anyone in need.
Beyond Cameron Flat the track leaves cattle country and ascends towards Harper Pass Bivvy, a cramped 2 bunk box with one tiny window and a helpful sign on the door that reads ‘fire exit’.
From the Biv the track crosses the Hurunui headwaters and climbs more steeply for ½ an hour to Harper Pass. Kiwis are present in the area in reasonable numbers and can be heard at night. Watch out for their 3-pronged foot prints as they are sometimes visible where the ground is soft.
On the West Coast side of the Pass the track drops steeply and crosses the Upper Taramakau River to the true right side. It continues down to a swingbridge, which takes trampers to the true left side. From here it is about 1 ½ hours downstream to Locke Stream Hut.
Locke Stream Hut is another Physical Welfare Division classic. It was built in 1940 with hand-hewn timber by 65 year old packman, Sam Burrows. The hut was restored in 1993 through a bequest from Tom Beeston's estate. It has a radio link to DOC’s visitor centre in Arthur’s Pass, which can be used to obtain weather information.
Locke Stream Hut to Morrison footbridge via Aitkens 6 - 8 hours (23km)
Beyond the hut, travel is down the Taramakau River and is easy through bush and open river terraces. There are, however, numerous river crossings that become impassable after heavy rain.
Kiwi Hut is located approximately half way down the Taramakau. Look out for DOC markers that point the way on the true right side. If the river is up it is safer to cross again above the Otehake confluence and then cross this river separately. It is then possible to remain on the true left all the way down to the sign-posted turn off onto the Flood Track to the Morrison Footbridge.
Trampers wishing to exit to the Aitkens carpark on SH 73 should continue down the Taramakau past a shelter and then ford the Otira River. Meanwhile Te Araroa continues left on the Flood Track for 2 hours and joins with the Mingha-Deception Track at the Morrison Footbridge. The Flood Track is clearly defined and well marked. It is through bush and involves a series of sharp climbs and descents along a steep face above the Otira River. Cross the footbridge to access SH 73. There is a carpark across the road. |
