The Two Thumbs Track is a fine high country trail that provides a challenging traverse through the Te Kahui Kaupeka Conservation Park. This is from the south side of the Rangitata River through to Boundary Stream at Lake Tekapo. The park opened in April 2009 and resulted from the successful tenure review of the Mesopotamia and Richmond Station pastoral leases.
Mesopotamia Station was once owned by the English polymath, Samuel Butler. The surrounding mountains, wide braided river and hanging valleys give this remote part of the South Island its lost world character, and inspired Butler’s fantastical satire, Erewhon. It’s an open and expansive environment that has a big country feel to it.
New Zealand’s Colonial Secretary Dr Andrew Sinclair was drowned in the Rangitata River after surveying the wide braids of the river system with Julius von Haast in 1861. He was seeking a way through the river to get back to Butler’s homestead. His grave is now marked as an historic site.
In pre-human times lower areas were most likely forested. However, burning reduced forest cover to remnants and resulted in the snow tussock cover that predominates today.
The start of the track is sign-posted, at the Bush Stream carpark beyond Mesopotamia Station, and is mostly unformed but marked with poles from there. Access is via Rangitata Gorge Rd. The huts en route are classic musterers’ huts and add an important historic dimension to this tramp.
Bush Stream car park to Crooked Spur Hut (4 hours)
Follow markers from the carpark up towards Bush Stream. Once at the stream, travel is up or adjacent to the river bed, crossings as required. These crossings are straightforward in normal flows but can be tricky after rain or during spring when the stream is fed by snow melt.
The track leaves the stream bed on the left to avoid a gorged section. In the process it climbs and then descends back towards Bush Stream.
Ford Bush Stream a final time near a concrete slab, the last remains of an old swing bridge. From the true left side a formed track climbs towards Crooked Spur Hut (5 bunks). This track was still used for mustering purposes up until 2009 and the climb to the hut takes about 1 hour.
Crooked Spur Hut is tired but provides adequate accommodation. It’s in a good location with views down Bush Stream to the Rangitata River.
Crooked Spur Hut to Stone Hut (5 hours)
From Crooked Spur Hut the track goes west around Crooked Spur and climbs steadily for 1-½ hours to a saddle at 1500m.
From the saddle the track descends to cross Pack Horse and Sweeps Streams before returning to Bush Stream. Travel is then up the true left bank to an old stock bridge. Cross it to reach Stone Hut.
Stone Hut (8 bunks) is in reasonable condition.
Stone Hut to Royal Hut (2 hours)
Beyond the hut Te Araroa follows Bush Stream to Royal Hut (8 bunks). Prince Charles and Princess Anne reputedly visited as children, hence the hut’s name.
Royal Hut to Camp Stream Hut (5 hours)
The first part of the day involves a climb over the Two Thumb Range via Stag Saddle (1925m), the highest point on Te Araroa.
From the hut cross Bush Stream and follow the poles upwards. The climb to the saddle is fairly steep in places but quite safe in reasonable weather. The contours ease towards the saddle, where cell phone coverage is available.
From the saddle it is possible to scramble up to the ridge on the right hand side and then to descend the ridge line past the turn off to Rex Simpson Memorial Hut (private) and .1468 to a 4WD track. While unmarked this route is generally sound underfoot and affords excellent views across Lake Tekapo to Mt Cook. It is the preferred route in fair weather. Turn left onto the 4WD track, which fords Camp Stream on its way to Camp Stream Hut (6-bunks).
The alternative poor weather route down from Stag Saddle is lightly poled and runs down into the tussock covered Camp Stream Valley. Lower down this valley the 2 routes converge at the 4WD track, turn right here to access Camp Stream Hut, which is on the true left side of the stream. Camp Stream Hut is compact but in reasonable condition.
Camp Stream Hut to Boundary Stream car park (5 hours)
The track leaves Camp Stream Hut for the Ski Field Road. Trampers must ford Coal River along the way. From the far side of the river it’s a steep but short climb to the road. There is a car park well down the road for those wanting to exit here.
Meanwhile Te Araroa continues on conservation land parallel with Lake Tekapo and along the base of the Richmond Range. The track crosses Washdyke Stream on its way to Boundary Stream where it descends above the true right bank to a car park at Lilybank Road.
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