The Tongariro Alpine Crossing track passes over varied and spectacular volcanic terrain. A cold mountain spring, lava flows, an active crater, steam vents, emerald-coloured lakes and magnificent views combine to make this challenging, enjoyable and memorable hike.
Note: Te Araroa track descriptions work from North to South whereas DOC encourages trampers to walk the Tongariro Alpine Crossing in the other direction – from South to North. So be aware, the crossing is a very popular tramp and following these instructions, you will be going against the tide.
From the Ketetahi Road end, the track goes through a cool podocarp-hardwood forest which is a relaxed contrast to the coming long ascent to the Ketetaki Hut. The track travels alongside a stream polluted with minerals from Ketetahi Springs and, at two points, passes over the tongue of a lava flow from Te Maari Crater.
From the forest bush line, the track winds its way up and up and up, through tussock slopes past the Ketetahi Springs to the Ketetahi Hut.
Note: The Ketetahi Springs are on private land. The Ketetahi Trust, representing the landowners, has given permission for trekkers to cross part of their land but this does not include access to Ketetahi Springs. Please respect this restraint and follow the poled route.
From the Ketetahi Hut, the track ascends further before sidling down around the flanks of North Crater to the Blue Lake and over the Mars-like Central Crater. Then it’s past the three water-filled explosion craters called the Emerald Lakes; their brilliant greenish colour is caused by minerals which have leached from the adjoining thermal area. (The Tongariro Northern Circuit track to Oturere Hut branches off to the left at the lowest lake).
Taking care on the loose stones and gravel on the track as you ascend steeply to the summit of Red Crater (1886 metres), the highest point on the Tongariro Alpine Crossing. From there, you can get views of Mt Tongariro and a side trip can be taken along a poled route leading to its summit (2 hours return). You can also smell the sulphur, evidence that Red Crater is still active.
The Tongariro Alpine Crossing track then continues along a poled route down the ridge leading to South Crater. For the fit and enthusiastic, Mt Ngauruhoe can be climbed as a three-hour return side trip from here. A poled route leads off the main track to the base of Ngauruhoe; from there the route follows a rock ridge directly uphill toward the summit. This route is not marked.
From Mangatepopo Saddle between Mount’s Ngauruhoe and Tongariro, you can be rewarded, on a clear day, by views of Mt Taranaki to the west. Then it’s a steep descent (down the Devil’s Staircase) to the head of the Mangatepopo Valley where a short side track leads to Soda Springs. The track then makes its way down the Mangatepopo Valley, at a gentle gradient alongside a stream and around the edges of old lava flows.
Once past a side track to Mangatepopo Hut, the carpark at Mangatepopo Road is only 30 minutes away.
(Note: For Te Araroa through walkers wanting to continue straight on to Whakapapa, the turnoff to the Mangatepopo Track is 200m further on from the Mangatepopo Hut side track. Whakapapa is another 10 kms : 3 hours or up to 5 hours in bad weather.
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